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July 31st, 2009 - 05:26
@ 0.48 is it just that one nail that is holding that floor down cuz when you tried to take it out the whole friggin floor moved, im afraid chipboard is SHIT, you need to secure that down PROPERLY before you backerboard it
July 31st, 2009 - 06:36
The holes are pre-drilled. They don’t tell you what to do when putting the screws in. Should the backer board be pre-drilled? Use a hammer drill? Or a diamond drill bit?
July 31st, 2009 - 06:03
Actually most manufactures offer this as part of their service. You can choose just about everything you want just like a custom home.
July 31st, 2009 - 06:08
This is difficult to answer without knowing the dimensions of the main beam. I suggest you have an architect or engineer have a look.
July 31st, 2009 - 06:29
It's always cheaper to build "up" than it is to build "out". You may notice a lot of house plans that have a bunch of square footage on the lower level – even with another level. This may make for interesting designs, and also more cost to build and a richer contractor!
There are many ways to make your space energy-efficient – specially NOW, when you're just beginning to think about your new home! See http://www.building-your-green-home.com/energy-efficient-home-design.html
for energy conserving ideas.
It's hard to give an exact percentage since costs are changing daily (at least in the U.S.). But consider that, depending on your foundation, you will be paying for all of the sq footage in a one story (for example: 1800 sq foot house – one level=1800 sq foot foundation, 1800 sq feet of roofing, trussing, etc.
1800 sq feet – 2 levels
900 sq foot foundation
900 sq foot roof, etc. (if you choose a basic design)
Much cheaper! This page on planning your dream home might be helpful… http://www.building-your-green-home.com/dream-green-home.html
Have fun planning your dream home, and I hope this helps!
July 31st, 2009 - 22:11
Try Carpet or tile squares. You could find somewhere that has a good stock, and ask what is their most popular selling type, pattern or brand.
This would be necessary because you want to be able to get a supply when you can afford to get a couple of boxes at a time… instead of the whole cost at once.
July 31st, 2009 - 23:42
There could be several reasons for this problem. One, the system may not have been engineered properly. Meaning that your baseboards can't give off enough heat to keep up with your heat loss. Two, somewhat ties in with the first, your windows could be drafty, seals and weatherstripping worn out or not existent. Your system could have been engineered using some assumptions how well the walls/attic were insulated. some forms of insulation settle over time, cheap windows don't perform very well after 5-10years. one thing you can check is to have a plumber check the water temperature leaving the boiler and the temperature returning to the boiler. If the temperature difference is small then you can add more baseboard or radiators to give off more heat in your living space. If the difference is large then you definitely need to look at your heat loss through walls, ceilings, and windows.
August 1st, 2009 - 11:18
If you can get the serial number, just call Fleetwood. If they still have it they'll fax, or mail, it to you.Fleetwood has an 800 number. Just call 800 information for Indiana.
August 1st, 2009 - 17:07
Those items shouldn't be a problem but I would contact the manufacturer of the home. They'll be able to provide you with the exact numbers based on the engineering.
August 2nd, 2009 - 11:25
It could cost anywhere from your $30,000 to over a $1 million or more. It depends on what's needed. You best bet is to get a contractor to come in and examine what's needed for the conversion and what you want to do. Based on that review, he'll be able to provide a proposal. Contractors will typically charge $300 – $500 for that estimate (if an architect is required, that price could go higher).
August 2nd, 2009 - 14:02
A Wireless router and make sure that each computer has a wireless card. And ofcourse an Internet Connection from your ISP.
August 2nd, 2009 - 18:31
If memory serves me right, it's very simple. You just need to seal it with a silicone product that should be available in any flooring dept. i.e. Home Depot, Lowes, etc.
August 3rd, 2009 - 00:15
!910-Complete illustrations of homes & bunglos floor plans;hope this web site help you out.
August 3rd, 2009 - 03:28
use a rubber foot on each coner. very cheap, very effective.
August 3rd, 2009 - 07:48
Ceramic tile should be laid on a sub-floor that has very little deflection, or spring in it. Personally I wouldn't lay down cement board as then you have to use a cement tile setting compound, which doesn't flex if your floor does, which leads to cracks and tiles lifting. If you first install, with construction adhesive and screws every 4", 3/4 inch G1S plywood, then you would be able to use a polymer modified thin-set, which flexes if your floor does. (The floor would definitely flex and move if say for example, you moved the home to another location, or the supporting piers at each end settled.)
Lastly, use a polymer modified floor grout, as it will flex if necessary also. Caulk where necessary at edges if no baseboard or where one plane meets another plane.
Good luck with it, and don't forget to clean any excess mortar off the surface of the tiles as you go, before it dries …it will make your final clean up a lot easier.
Dr. Harvey Glimebinder
August 3rd, 2009 - 14:07
Wash both areas with Vinegar first then use the sealers as suggested by the others. This will work on both the wood and the concrete floor. (But remember, just in case, ………..no vinegar on marble. I messed up with that one……..)
The smell will be gone, however the stain may remain.
August 3rd, 2009 - 15:58
make sure the aircondition vents are open upstairs…also, try closing off the vents downstairs and focusing all the cold air to the vents that go upstairs…otherwise, get some of those circular fans from costco….